Dr. Martens turns 50

Iconic Dr. Martens no longer just for the punk crowd

Boot defined style for the skinhead, punk and grunge movements

By David Livingstone

For a while, it seemed that Doc Martens might have come to their final resting place on the feet of mohawked derelicts sprawled with their pit bulls in doorways along Queen St. W.

But there has been a turnaround.

Collaborations with designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Raf Simons helped restore a cachet. At the Art Basel fair in Miami in December, there were one-of-a-kind Dr. Martens customized by Justin Giunta, creator of the Subversive Jewelry collection.

The '80s revival that happened on the runways of the world has added further momentum to the comeback of Docs, which have been seen on supermodel Agyness Deyn as well as the super bad Lady Gaga.

This return to cool has happened just in time for the brand's 50th anniversary on April 1. It was on that day in 1960 that the iconic eight-eyelet boot with the air-cushioned sole – known as the 1460 – first went into production in Britain.

In succession, the boot was adopted by mods, punks, goths and other stylish tribes. That's not how it all began, however.

In 1945, Klaus Märtens, a physician with the German army, injured his ankle skiing and invented boots with air-padded soles that provided comfortable support.

Then R. Griggs, a manufacturer in Northamptonshire (the cradle of British shoemaking), struck a deal with the doctor and started production in 1960.

The footwear was popular with factory workers, police and mail carriers before it was taken up by youthful subcultures.

The boots are long-wearing – there's even a For Life range that comes with a lifetime guarantee and is sold on the Dr. Martens website and at Dr. Martens stores, of which there are none in Canada.

Even so, subcultures age.

By the beginning of the 21st century, the popularity of Dr. Martens was in serious decline.

In Canada, a shift to an outside distributor also contributed to a reduced profile for the brand.

But in 2008, Dr. Martens resumed control of Canadian distribution, making available to Canadian retailers a wider range of its offerings.

In the following year, according to Doug Segal, international sales manager, the company sold 100,000 pairs of shoes in this country, which represented a 40 per cent increase.

Carried by retailers such as NEON, SoftMoc and Little Burgundy, the Dr. Martens brand this fall will also be available at Holt Renfrew, another indicator of fashionability regained.

As recently reported by the trade journal Footwear News, one of the main trends for next season is the laced-up boot in utilitarian, military or Alpine versions. Dr. Martens accessorized fall collections by American menswear designers Tim Hamilton, Michael Bastian and Patrik Ervell.

And they've been spotted on the street.

In the summer, Marc Jacobs was photographed in New York wearing a kilt accessorized with a Birkin bag and Doc-style boots.

Besides boots (three- and eight-eyelet models) that have been made in limited editions of premium pebbled leather to celebrate the 50th anniversary, Dr. Martens now makes a variety of styles reflecting all the directions feet can fashionably go.

There are metallics, florals, solid bright colours in leather, which looks like canvas, and with white soles – currently a major rage – that look like they won't stay that way for long.

And among spring arrivals, there are the women's boots named Diva, which feature platform soles and look as if they could go wherever they felt like.

Holy. I wouldn't be able to wear those. I'd break a leg.

I love my docs. Only problem is I made the mistake of hunting with them on in moist areas so now the back of the heel is warped and rubs. As you can guess that isn't too comfortable. But I don't like the new looks. I can kinda lean with the metallics but the others I can't stand.

This is a fun fact.